Laodicea City Plan

Laodicea Map

1. Parliament Building (Bouleuterion)

2. Southern Bath Complex

3. First Water Distribution Terminal

4. Stadium

5. Central Baths

6. Western Baths

7. Eastern Baths

8. North Theater

9. West Theater

10. Caracalla Nymphaeum (Fountain)

11. Syrian Road

12. Temple A

13. Rotunda

14. Octagonal Roman Building

15. North Church

16. Southwest Church

17. Northwest Church

18. Four armed Byzantine Church

19. Ephesian Gate and Byzantine Gate

20. Hierapolis Gate

21. Syrian Gate

22. Aphrodisias Gate and Southern Byzantine Gate

23. West Agora

24. Macellum on the Ephesian Road

25. Roman Bridge Above Asopos

26. Second Water Distribution Terminal

27. First and Second Memorial Pathways (Propylene)

28. Central Agora

29. Early Roman Walls

30. Eastern Byzantine Gate and Towers

31. Eastern Byzantine Nymphaeum (Fountain)

32. S. Severus Nymphaeum (Fountain)

33. Ephesian Road

34. South Agora

35. South Roman Village

36. North Workshops

37. Southwestern Temple

38. House A

39. Street Water Distribution Center

40. Praetorian (City Guest House)

41. Building Near Western Theater

42. Temple

43. Temple

44. Temple

45. Memorial Walkway

46. Ephesian Portico

47. South Nymphaeum

48. West Nymphaeum

49. Northwestern Byzantine Gate

50. Necropolis

51. Asopos I-II

52. Laodicean Church

53. Central Church

54. Stadium Road

55. Nymphaeum B, Toilets and Water Depo

56. Temple A on the Eastern Road

57. Roman Peristyle Home

58. Holy Way Portico

59. Stadyum Church

60. Rectangular Building

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Ancient City Laodicea

Laodicea 01This is a translation of a booklet put out by the Denizli Municipality in Turkey. They have likely translated and printed a copy of this for tourists but when I was there two months ago the city had yet to print and put out an English version of this brochure. Over the next few weeks I’ll be highlighting my translation of this booklet with photos from the booklet and my collections over the years of touring Laodicea.

(page 1)

“The ancient city of Laodicea is located just six kilometers North of the Eskihisar, Goncalı and Bozburun neighborhoods. The city was strategically founded at the top of a plateau girded on three sides by three creeks with the Lykos River (Çürüksü) to the North East, the Kapros River (Başlıçay) to the South East and the Asopos Creek (Gümüşçay-Goncalı Deresi) along the North West side of the city. This city of Hellenistic origins was founded by the Seleucid king  Antiochus II in the third century BC. The city was named in honor of his wife Laodice II. By 130 BC the region was completely connected to the Roman Empire.

As a result of the devastating earthquakes that frequently occurred throughout the history of the city and with regards to the great expense of rebuilding the city, during the reign of Emperor Phocas (602-610 AD) the damage caused by a great earthquake forced the city away from the North Salbakos (Babadağ) region twards the Denizli-Kaleiçi Hisarköy regions. The city was home to one of the seven churches mentioned in the book of Revelation in the New Testament meaning that it must have been a region of religious importance during the early Byzantine period. As a result of the digs at the site it has been established that the regions was inhabited as early as the Chalcolithic Period (5500 BC).

The most significant source of income for the city, because of its location the crossroads of the region was trade. The greatest product of the region was textile. The city was joined by right angled intersecting main roads forming a grid style (hippodomik) city plan. Contained in a five square kilometer region one will find the, to date, remains of this ancient city: the largest stadium in Anatolia (285×70 meters in size), 2 theaters, 4 bath complexes, 4 agoras, 5 nymphaeums (fountain complexes), 2 memorial city gates, a bouleuterion, temple, two churches and a monumental road are just a few of the city’s riches.”

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Visit to Istanbul: No Bond to Be Found

Beyazit Mosque SunsetWell some of you may have read my previous post on the latest Bond film and the interesting facts regarding Bond’s long history in Istanbul. I had mentioned in that post that I would keep my eyes out for Bond and although I did make it to Sultanahmet and the Grand Bazaar sadly I did not get a glimpse of Daniel Craig and the 007 crew.

I did get to connect with some of my friends in Istanbul including some airport officials and a couple of hotel managers. It was the first time I’ve done the Istanbul day trip with my son who is now 2 and the best aspects of the time for him were the runs in Gülhane Park and chasing the pigeons in Sultanahmet Square.

LionheadThe corn merchants were out and despite the horrible overcooked flavorless corn that they were selling my son asked twice to buy corn from a street vendor. Although the weather was nice and we usually associate chestnuts roasted on an open fire to be a Christmas event, the late spring air was filled with the scent of roasting “kestane.”

The birds in Gülhane, were numerous and amorous as the young couples lazed upon the grass and the Gulhane Treeschildren ran around the park. The long walk through the park shaded by ancient high growing trees is one of my favorite walks in Istanbul and one of the most relaxing areas in the center of a city of 20 million. As we reached the end and walked up the hill that sits between the outer wall of the Topkapı palace and the Bosphorus. The cool of the shade in the late spring and our perch at the top of the hill at the end of the park were my favorite moments of this 18 hour trip to Istanbul.

Hope you get to go spend some time reflecting in this park when you arrive and if you’re in Istanbul any time soon maybe you’ll get a glimpse of James Bond.

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Turkey Tour Location focus of UNESCO Award

GoremeEnes Altunok a Turkish high school student brought yet another flurry of interest to one of our favorite regions in Turkey. The photos that this 17 year old took highlighted the unique geological beauty of this rugged central Anatolian region where thousands of years of history have unfolded beneath and above the ground. Cappadocia with it’s fairy tale qualities is one of the most unique places to visit in all the world. As you walk through the Rose Valley or visit the Fairy Chimneys at the Open Air Museum in Göreme you will understand UNESCO’s interest in this world heritage site.

The main photo highlighted in the Hurriyet Daily News is of a traditional Cappadocian carving representing the regions foundation and architectural artifacts. This is one of the best and cheapest souvenirs that one can take away from a visit to Cappadocia and one of my favorite unique items you can purchase while traveling in Turkey.

stone souvenir02It is always exciting to see more and more people come to appreciate these gems hidden in a country that reaches between two continents.

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Book Tour Istanbul

Istanbul Book 01The development of Orhan Pamuk as a world renowned writer in the past several years has brought the spot light back upon the magical crossroads of Istanbul. The city sitting on the boarder of two continents and housing more than a fifth of the nations population has been the birth place of many a great pieces of fiction. Even the modern medium of film has been captivated by the beauty of the largest city of this country with ancient roots and architectural wonders crowing it’s every hill and shoreline.

Here is a quick list of some of the authors who visited the region from the United States. The list of authors is compiled from a new written collection of thoughts and reflections by famous American writers in the book titled American Writers in Istanbul 

Herman Melville, Mark Twain, Dos Passos, Nelson Algren, and of course Agatha Christie. The insights of these authors and many more can add a rich flavor and give scope and perspective for any American looking to visit Turkey. The thoughts about the city may not reflect the current modernized version of the city but will at least ad an air of excitement and adventure to your wanderings around the tourist friendly Istanbul of today.

In recent news you can visit the newly opened book museum founded by Orhan Pamuk a memorial of the Istanbul of his youth with rooms filled with Turkish paraphernalia from the 1950’s to the end of the 20th century. His latest works The Museum of Innocence acted as inspiration for this idea of a book museum.

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Istanbul Turkey Tour and Possible Bond Sightings

I will be visiting Istanbul next week and am hoping to see Daniel Craig while walking around the Sultanahmet square. Although I only have a short time and will probably only be visiting some of the places I suggested in my, “Istanbul in 18 Hours” post, I am hoping that in my brief time visiting the city with my family I’ll be able to catch a glimpse of Sam Mendes and the crew. Here’s a video of the crew’s arrival on Sunday, April 29th and their interviews with the press.

If this video isn’t enough you might consider joining the Bond Facebook page and keeping up with the crew’s adventures around “The City.”

Any sightings will be forthcoming on our blog. Consider visiting the same places as Bond with a special Turkey tour. Adana which is mentioned in the film is a historic crossroads and location of a US Air Force base. Likely the references to that area will have to do with military Air Force related activities as well as including some of the hot topics of modern Middle East politics.

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Istanbul in 18 Hours

Istanbul 2012I just spent another day taking friends around Istanbul which inspired me to write a short “how to” article for those of you wondering what you might do in Istanbul in less than 24 hours. Perhaps you have a short lay over and want to see the significant sites. Before you embark on a journey of Istanbul you’ll want to know a few important facts.

1. If you’re going into town and you’re traveling alone you can stow your bags at the airport for 20-50 Turkish Lira (roughly $10-$30) and then follow the sings to the subway which has its terminus station under Ataturk International Airport (map here). If you are part of a group of three or four travelers and you intend to stay the night in Istanbul it will be more cost efficient to take your bags with you and hail a taxi at the exit. One taxi will cost roughly 45 Turkish Lira to take you to Sultanahmet but will likely have to wander to find any particular address. So, unless you know exactly where you’re going you might want to bring your GPS and an address.

2. You will want to make sure to note what day of the week you will be in Istanbul. This is important because of the varying schedule for different sites. The Hagia Sophia is closed on Mondays but the Topkapi Palace is closed on Tuesdays. Traveling on the weekend will likely give you the opportunity to visit both of these fascinating sites without the fear of them being closed upon your arrival.

Istanbul Metro3. Getting around town on public transport can be limited to the main rail systems which use different forms of plastic tokens for one time entry. Because the rail systems sometimes use different types of tokens it is wise to purchase only as many tokens as you will need to enter the subway at any given point because you can always buy more from the Token dispensers just outside any stop. I’ve pasted a picture of the tokens to the map of the metro system in Istanbul. The map is fairly self-explanatory. If you’re wanting to get to Sultanahmet (probably the most dense portion of tourist attractions in Istanbul) then you’ll want to get off at Zeytinburnu and change lines over to the light rail line that runs through downtown all the way to Sultanahmet.

4. Some of the main attractions are found at these locations:shutterstock_28610512

Beyazit – Grand Bazaar

Sultanahmet – Hagia Sophia, Sultanahmet Mosque (Blue Mosque), Topkapi Palace, Yerebatan Sarayi (Underground Cistern), Hippodrome and many other sites.

Gulhane – Just one stop down from Sultanahmet but where you want to get off if Gulhane Park which sits beneath the Topkapi Palace Grounds and houses the Istanbul Archaeology Museum.

Eminonu – Is where you want to get off if you’d like to take a ferry ride up and down the waterways along the Golden Horn or if you’d like to jump off for one of several of the islands around Istanbul.

Taksim – Sits at the top of the underground cable car which takes you from Kabatas to Taksim and Istiklal Street – the biggest walking street in Istanbul and some of the best high fashion shopping to be had in Istanbul. This is the gathering point of Istanbul and easily reached by several different lines. You might visit the Galata Tower at the end of the mile and half walking road.

5. All of these sites can be visited on a day tour of Istanbul, but to truly enjoy them all it would be better to travel with us utilizing a guide and the extra comfort of your own transportation, if for nothing else than your feet which will be aching after a long day of gezzing (walking around).

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Laodicea

Tour Turkey Laodicea 2012If you’re traveling to Turkey for the purpose of visiting places of Biblical relevance then you won’t want to miss Laodicea. Half way between Izmir and Antalya you can stop over for the night and enjoy thermal baths and historical wonders. The most independently wealthy of the seven cities addressed in the Biblical book of Revelation Laodicea is now a historical site that has a lot to offer. The Municipality of Denizli along with Turkey’s Historical Society boasts that they will do with Laodicea in years what has taken foreign archaeologists decades and centuries to do with Ephesus.

The site in the past ten years has gone from an open field with the remnants of columns and walls just breaching the surface of the ground and two amphitheaters in bad disrepair to a full fledged city with a visible arcade, temple and two nymphaeums (water fountains) two excavated churches, a hippodrome (race track) and city walls. The site has been reported to have as many as 300 employees working on site and at least 30 archaeologists working to excavate the site.

Laodicea PatioOne of the more spectacular sites at the site is the glass observation patio that walks out over the work that is going on in one of the downstairs rooms of the temple. One can walk suspended thirty feet in the air as they look down on archaeologists and excavators working to uncover parts of the temple walls. Don’t wear high heels the security guard warns or you might crack the glass and fall through. This warning was not needed for our practically dressed American tourists but might be well heeded by those seeking fashion over comfort on their pilgrimage to Laodicea.

Laodicea Hierapolis 2012From the glass patio one can look out towards the North and see Hierapolis and look to the East and see where Colossae was located. As one is looking to the East they can also make out the ongoing excavation of a sixth century church and possibly the descendants of the recipients of the letter of Revelation from John. The church is scheduled to be open to the public soon with progress on the walls and columns of the building being improved upon at a rapid pace. The work is long and arduous and during our time at the site the excavation crews took great pleasure in pausing and peeping over the shoulder height walls that they were removing dust and sand from to spy my two year old son running around in the green March grass.

Laodicea Spring 2012The wildflowers and grass are at their best giving the most vivid contrast to the sites old ruins and freshly colored hillside. Soon the heat and dry weather will turn the green fields into golden beds of thistles and thorns, but the spring gives life and color to the site and allows little children the joy of collecting flowers and chasing after lizards which cover the walls of the city by the hundreds and skitter over the tops of their compatriots, the only long term residents of modern Laodicea.

The site is now becoming better equipped for visitors with a fully functioning rest stop and new bathroom facilities closer to the site. The facilities are all high quality and free of charge as can be expected at almost every historical site in Turkey. There are still a few that lack free facilities but for the most part those sites are the small and rarely visited places in Turkey, for obvious reasons. We do hope that you will choose to travel some day with us to the quickly expanding historical site of Laodicea.

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Mersin, Turkey

Kizkalesi - MersinI was recently talking with my friend who hails from Mersin a city on the South coast of Turkey just North of Cyprus and just to the West of Adana and Antakya. Our discussion revolved around the reasons why we don’t send a lot of tourists in the direction of Mersin. He was sharing with me the significant improvements that the city of Mersin has undergone over the past few years and was also trying to sell me on sending our guests to his father’s hotel on the Mediterranean coast to the South of the city.

While I understand his desire to increase the number of visitors to his father’s hotel and also appreciate the novelty of visiting locations off the beaten path, I also know that most of our customers are looking for something upscale and Mersin is yet to have the amenities that the majority of our clientele might be looking for in name brand hotels with trusted quality and comfort standards. For those of you reading of the more adventurous nature you might see Mersin as a stop over as you journey to the East or as a haven of beach fun after traveling the interior of Turkey; visiting places like Diyarbakir or Cappadocia. You might be bookend an adventure to Van, Haran or Antioch with a stop at the beach in Mersin.

Or, maybe you’d like to visit Turkey from Cyprus in the warm summer months when the ferries run regularly between the North of the Mediterranean island country and the Southern coast of Turkey. Mersin is the closest major city to the port where you would land on your way North from Cyprus. In 2005 I drove the coastal route between Antalya and Antakya and had the pleasure of visiting some sites near Mersin, including the entrance to Heaven and Hell, surprisingly located right next to each other or the birth place of The Apostle Paul – Tarsus.

Most frequently travelers to this region though are just trying to get away from the heat and make their way from the interior of Turkey to the Mediterranean waters.

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Turkey’s Tea, Coffee and Salep

In Turkey there is a common village deyim (saying):

“If you drink a cup of tea with someone you’re a neighbor, if you drink a second cup you are a friend and by the third cup you are family.”

Turkish TeaTurkish culture is full of sayings like this and also full of little tea like pleasantries that you can partake in to promote friendship and community and have a reason to talk. Chatting with someone face to face, a skill almost completely lost to the Western individual, is a highly valued event in Turkish culture. Hot drinks are something that can be offered by even the poorest in the economic strata and so a cup of Turkish tea, coffee, or salep is the great equalizer in a country where hospitality is extremely important.

It is no surprise that hot drinks are used as one of the biggest marketing ploys in the bazaar. One will be invited to have a cup of tea to sell friendship and a Turkish Carpet, or friendship and a ceramic bowl. Another place one can enjoy a hot drink is at any one of hundreds of patisseries and cafes around the city in Istanbul or Antalya. There are several special drinks that Turks are known for tea and Turkish Coffee are probably some of the most commonly known.

Turkish CoffeeTurkish Coffee is unique for it’s old preparation methods involving boiling fine grounds in a fluted copper or metal pot until the froth of the boiling liquid reaches the mouth of the cup with varied amounts of sugar (az şeker, orta şeker, and bol şeker). The liquid is then poured into espresso sized cups where it is sipped carefully through the teeth. When the cup is two thirds drained one usually has reached the grounds and needs to stop so as not to over-caffeinate themselves. One of the most popular brands of Turkish Coffee is Mehmet Efendi.

Turkish SalepAnother popular drink in Turkey, but less known outside of Turkey, is the drink called Salep. Salep actually predates coffee in Europe. The drink is a mixture of spices with the ground tubers of the orchid plant. This dried plant bi-product has a sweet thick quality that has been considered a cure for ED and an aphrodisiac. The drink is a very pleasant cinnamon like drink served sweet and hot. One can find it distributed like Boza in the winter time on the back of a street vendor calling out to the masses to come have a cup of salep. The store shelves in Turkey are stocked with liquid and powder version of this drink. Some of our favorites at Dos Plumas are SEK’s liquid ready to drink Salep and Boğdat’s powdered version that must be mixed with milk or water.

Other Dos Plumas articles on food:

Index

Boza with a Bozaci

Food 

The Basics of Turkish Cuisine

Iskender Kebap

Künefe

Turkish Stuffed Eggplant

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